Fence Gate Installation & Repair in Beaverton, OR

Gate types & sizing

The gate is the part of your fence you actually touch every day, so it has to be built right. We install and repair every common manual gate type in Beaverton: the single walk gate for everyday foot traffic, the double gate that opens wide for mowers, equipment, or a trailer, the manual driveway gate, and the small side-yard or pet gate. Sizing matters — a walk gate sized for people, a wider opening for a riding mower, and a driveway gate sized for vehicles. We'll measure for the use you have in mind. Call Beaverton Fence Pro or see all Beaverton fencing services. (Note: we install manual gates only — automatic operators and access control are outside our scope.)

Why gates sag and drag — and how we fix it

A gate that drags on the ground or won't latch almost always comes down to one of two things: loose or undersized hinges, or a rotting, leaning hinge post that can no longer carry the weight. A gate is essentially a lever, and that leverage finds every weak point in the hardware and the post over time.

Our gate repair attacks both. We re-set or upgrade the hinges, add a diagonal anti-sag cable and turnbuckle to pull the gate back square, and reinforce or fully replace the hinge post — setting a heavier post deeper in concrete so it can actually hold the load. The result is a gate that swings true and latches with a click again. If your whole fence needs attention too, see our fence repair service.

Cost factors

Gate cost is driven by the size (a wide double or driveway gate uses more material and heavier hardware), the fence material, the hardware you choose, and the post work involved — a fresh gate on a sound fence is quick, while replacing a rotted hinge post adds labor. We quote it itemized, no fixed-price guessing, so you can see exactly where the money goes. Serving the southwest neighborhoods — check fencing in Murray Hill.

Choosing the right gate for how you actually use it

Most gate regret comes from picking the wrong width or the wrong swing before the holes are even dug. The fix is to start with the daily use, not the catalog. A single walk gate at around three to four feet handles people, a wheelbarrow, and a garbage bin without feeling cramped. If a push mower or a wheeled trash cart has to get through, a wider single leaf or a small double makes that an easy pass instead of a tight squeeze. A manual driveway or side-yard double gate is the one to size generously — a trailer, a truck bed, or a riding mower needs real clearance, and an opening that looked fine on paper feels narrow the first time you back a vehicle through it. We measure the actual thing you plan to move and add room, because a few extra inches now beats living with a pinch point for years. It's also worth thinking a step ahead: a gate that's just wide enough today gets cramped the day you buy a wider mower or need to move a shed panel through, so when the run allows it we'll suggest the slightly larger opening that keeps your options open.

Swing direction and slope decide where the gate goes

A gate should open the way the ground and the traffic want it to. On a sloped Beaverton lot, a leaf that swings downhill can scrape as it opens, so we plan the swing, the hinge side, and the ground clearance together before setting posts. Gates almost always swing inward over your own property so they don't open into a walkway, a driveway, or the public side of the line, and a double driveway gate needs level, clear ground through its full arc so neither leaf binds halfway open. We also leave enough bottom gap to clear leaves, mulch, and the seasonal heave that comes with our wet-then-dry soil, while keeping the gap tight enough that a pet or a small child can't slip under it. Getting the swing and clearance right is quiet work that you only notice when it's wrong.

Post depth and concrete are what keep a gate square

A gate is a lever, and every time it opens it tries to pull its hinge post out of plumb. That's why the hinge post is the part we overbuild. We set gate posts larger and deeper than the line posts, with a wider concrete footing below the frost-and-moisture zone, so the post carries the swinging load without leaning over time. On a heavy double or driveway gate we'll go heavier still and, where it helps, tie the gate posts back into the fence line for extra resistance. A gate hung on a properly set post stays square for years; a gate hung on an undersized or shallow post starts to sag the first wet winter, no matter how good the hinges are. We'd rather spend the time in the ground than come back to chase a drooping gate later. The same post-and-footing discipline carries through the rest of our Beaverton fencing services, because a fence is only as steady as what it stands in.